{"id":2933,"date":"2016-06-20T16:56:38","date_gmt":"2016-06-20T16:56:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/elcuchara.es\/?p=2933"},"modified":"2020-02-18T18:43:58","modified_gmt":"2020-02-18T17:43:58","slug":"gabon-la-selva-inmpenetrable","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/gabon-la-selva-inmpenetrable\/","title":{"rendered":"Gabon : La for\u00eat imp\u00e9n\u00e9trable"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Au cas o\u00f9 quelqu'un ne l'aurait pas encore compris, ce que j'aime, c'est le d\u00e9sert, j'y ai fait mes premiers pas et j'aimerais y terminer mon voyage, mais parfois j'aime changer et explorer d'autres mondes.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2943 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-costa-gabon--1024x501.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-costa gabon\" width=\"1024\" height=\"501\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-costa-gabon--1024x501.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-costa-gabon--300x147.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-costa-gabon--768x376.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-costa-gabon--700x342.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-costa-gabon-.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Et peu importe o\u00f9 je vais, chaque fois que je quitte la maison, un sentiment \u00e9trange m'envahit : j'ai toujours besoin de plus, de me perdre sur chaque route, de prendre des risques, de me laisser aller, de m'attirer des ennuis, de tomber amoureuse, de perdre la t\u00eate, de la retrouver au bout de deux jours, de tout essayer (je parle ici de la nourriture, je ne sais pas ce que vous avez compris...).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2945 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-owendo-1024x623.jpg\" alt=\"desertando- owendo\" width=\"1024\" height=\"623\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-owendo-1024x623.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-owendo-300x183.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-owendo-768x467.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-owendo-700x426.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-owendo.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Je cherche d\u00e9sesp\u00e9r\u00e9ment un endroit o\u00f9 je pourrai rester longtemps. Je ne sais pas quel sera cet endroit, mais comme on dit dans le Rif : \"Maktub\" (tout est \u00e9crit), alors je continue \u00e0 chercher, un jour il appara\u00eetra.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2939 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-1-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-estuario Gabon 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-1-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-1-700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-1.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>La v\u00e9rit\u00e9, c'est qu'au cours des douze derniers mois, j'ai cru avoir trouv\u00e9 cet endroit en Libye, en Tunisie (j'y resterais pour vivre dans le bar La Cloisteri, quelle barbarie, quel endroit !), en \u00c9gypte, au Maroc, \u00e0 Djibouti, en \u00c9thiopie, en Tanzanie, etc etc, et bien s\u00fbr, r\u00e9cemment, au Gabon.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2941 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Port-Gentil-1-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-Port Gentil 1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Port-Gentil-1-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Port-Gentil-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Port-Gentil-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Port-Gentil-1-700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Port-Gentil-1.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Et bien que tout voyage sur le continent du lion et des levers de soleil violets devienne sp\u00e9cial, je vous dirai qu'il ne m'a fallu que 4 choses pour penser que cet endroit pourrait me rendre accro :<\/p>\n<p>1 - Une route. Et la n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 de la parcourir en moto jusqu'au bout, l'inaccessible Loango, le paradis, o\u00f9 m\u00eame les hippopotames surfent sur la plage...<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2946 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando--1024x525.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-\" width=\"1024\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando--1024x525.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando--300x154.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando--768x394.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando--700x359.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2947 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/0eb5b817275d29b66a3f1d5f00029e7ff27a9c36.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"512\" height=\"288\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/0eb5b817275d29b66a3f1d5f00029e7ff27a9c36.jpg 512w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/0eb5b817275d29b66a3f1d5f00029e7ff27a9c36-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>(cette photo n'est pas la mienne, elle provient de la BBC, mais sinon personne ne la croirait).<\/p>\n<p>Une plage. Le souvenir de ce capitaine grill\u00e9 que j'ai d\u00e9gust\u00e9 \u00e0 l'H\u00f4teli\u00e8re du Phare me hante encore. Et plus encore la promenade nue qui s'en est suivie sur la plage de la Sabli\u00e8re, me laissant surprendre par le coucher du soleil, perdant la notion du temps en jetant des po\u00e8mes au vent et aux vagues (je ne sais pas si j'ai \u00e9t\u00e9 trop loin dans la mise en sc\u00e8ne de mon extase \ud83d\ude42 ).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2935 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-libreville-1.jpg\" alt=\"Playa-Libreville\" width=\"960\" height=\"556\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-libreville-1.jpg 960w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-libreville-1-300x174.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-libreville-1-768x445.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-libreville-1-700x405.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2958 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-Port-Gentil-5-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-playa Port Gentil 5\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-Port-Gentil-5-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-Port-Gentil-5-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-Port-Gentil-5-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-Port-Gentil-5-700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-playa-Port-Gentil-5.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>3.- Une jungle. Si imprenable, si attirante et si inconnue pour moi. Comme il est vrai que l'on ne sait pas que l'on a faim jusqu'\u00e0 ce que l'on mette devant soi un plat que l'on aime. Je ne la changerais pas pour le d\u00e9sert, mais...<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2950 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/gabon.jpg\" alt=\"Gabon\" width=\"595\" height=\"301\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/gabon.jpg 595w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/gabon-300x152.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 595px) 100vw, 595px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>4 - Et bien s\u00fbr, un bar (enfin, plus d'un). Je veux retourner d\u00eener au Skylife \u00e0 Libreville et dig\u00e9rer mon d\u00eener avec l'aide d'un gin tonic au bar No Stress.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2951 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Akanda-2.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-Akanda 2\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Akanda-2.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Akanda-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Akanda-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-Akanda-2-700x467.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Mais revenons \u00e0 la jungle. On dit que lorsque Ch\u00e9 a d\u00e9barqu\u00e9 au Congo (RDC) comme soutien cubain \u00e0 la cause des rebelles Simba (pour l'amour ou la r\u00e9volution, il n'y a pas de grande distance), Laurent Kabila l'a pr\u00e9venu qu'il n'\u00e9tait pas venu pour jouer \u00e0 Tarzan. Conseil que j'aurais pu suivre, car c'est exactement ce que je ressentais, et bien s\u00fbr, la Jungle s'est charg\u00e9e de me montrer que je me prenais pour Tarzan de la Jungle alors qu'en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 j'\u00e9tais plut\u00f4t Dani de Vito dans \"Apr\u00e8s le c\u0153ur vert\".<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2952 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-4-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-estuario Gabon 4\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-4-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-4-700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-Gabon-4.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>La premi\u00e8re tentative pour vaincre la jungle \u00e9tait par voie terrestre, j'ai donc lou\u00e9 une voiture dans l'id\u00e9e de me rendre \u00e0 Coco Beach, \u00e0 la fronti\u00e8re avec la Guin\u00e9e \u00e9quatoriale. Difficile (bien qu'il m'ait fallu plusieurs heures pour l'accepter).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2953 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Akanda.jpg\" alt=\"Akanda\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Akanda.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Akanda-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Akanda-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Akanda-700x467.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>D\u00e9termin\u00e9 \u00e0 ne pas abandonner, le deuxi\u00e8me essai consistait \u00e0 traverser le parc national de l'Akanda pour tenter de raccourcir la route. Impossible.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2956 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-gabon-3-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-estuario gabon 3\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-gabon-3-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-gabon-3-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-gabon-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-gabon-3-700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-estuario-gabon-3.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Enfin, nous avons tent\u00e9 de nous enfoncer dans la jungle en pirogue en remontant le fleuve Ogoou\u00e9 et l'estuaire du Gabon jusqu'au parc Wonga Wongue. La folie.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2937 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-Ogoou\u00e9-1024x444.jpg\" alt=\"rio-Ogoou\u00e9\" width=\"1024\" height=\"444\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-Ogoou\u00e9-1024x444.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-Ogoou\u00e9-300x130.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-Ogoou\u00e9-768x333.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-Ogoou\u00e9-700x303.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Malheureusement, maintenant qu'il devient int\u00e9ressant, je vais l'interrompre, car je vois que j'ai \u00e9t\u00e9 trop long.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2954 size-large\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Desertando-estuario-Gabon-5-1024x559.jpg\" alt=\"Desertando-estuario Gabon 5\" width=\"1024\" height=\"559\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Desertando-estuario-Gabon-5-1024x559.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Desertando-estuario-Gabon-5-300x164.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Desertando-estuario-Gabon-5-768x420.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Desertando-estuario-Gabon-5-700x382.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Comme vous pouvez l'imaginer, toutes les tentatives ont \u00e9t\u00e9 un d\u00e9sastre, mais ce n'\u00e9tait pas une mauvaise aventure, n'est-ce pas Micky ? Je suis heureux que nous ayons au moins essay\u00e9.....<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2957 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-ogooue3.jpg\" alt=\"desertando-rio ogooue3\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-ogooue3.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-ogooue3-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-ogooue3-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/desertando-rio-ogooue3-700x467.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Au cas o\u00f9 quelqu'un ne l'aurait pas encore remarqu\u00e9, j'ai \u00e9t\u00e9...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2956,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v23.5 - 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