{"id":3658,"date":"2019-05-02T20:49:14","date_gmt":"2019-05-02T20:49:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/elcuchara.es\/?p=3658"},"modified":"2020-02-21T13:16:58","modified_gmt":"2020-02-21T12:16:58","slug":"en-tierra-de-elefantes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/en-tierra-de-elefantes\/","title":{"rendered":"Au pays des \u00e9l\u00e9phants"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous avons des amis qui demandent toujours la guerre. Ils ont travers\u00e9 avec nous les dunes du Sahara, navigu\u00e9 sur le fleuve Gambie jusqu'au mythique Janjanbureh et travers\u00e9 le Burkina Faso \u00e0 travers le pays Lobi. Nous avons \u00e9galement visit\u00e9 ensemble des lieux aussi myst\u00e9rieux et cach\u00e9s que la magie vaudou de Ouidah, le territoire des Somba, ou encore assist\u00e9 \u00e0 une c\u00e9l\u00e9bration de la secte du christianisme c\u00e9leste dans une maison sur pilotis au bord du lac Nokou\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Tout ce dont ils ont besoin, c'est d'une carafe de vin sud-africain Namaqua et d'un peu de fuet pour s'aventurer comme Tarzan dans le l\u00e9gendaire royaume d'Opar ou pour trouver la cit\u00e9 perdue de Kor et d\u00e9fier le pouvoir de \"Celle qui doit \u00eatre ob\u00e9ie...\". Quelle belle<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-chobe\"<\/p>\n

Et bien s\u00fbr, cette ann\u00e9e, ils voulaient traverser le Kalahari, le pays de la Grande Soif. Un d\u00e9sert \u00e0 la fois merveilleux et myst\u00e9rieux, implacable avec les imprudents et ceux qui ne se doutent de rien, aussi s\u00e9duisant qu'exigeant, un monde solitaire.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-makgadikgadi\"<\/p>\n

Une terre rude \u00e0 laquelle seuls les Bushmen ont su s'adapter. Presque le seul peuple de chasseurs-cueilleurs qui reste en Afrique, pers\u00e9cut\u00e9 et presque extermin\u00e9 au si\u00e8cle dernier, un monde en voie de disparition.\"\u00c1frica-Kubu\"Je les ai trouv\u00e9es plus au sud, dans le d\u00e9sert et aussi dans le lac Eyasi, en Tanzanie. Je venais de lire le livre de Van der Post, donc j'avoue qu'\u00e0 l'\u00e9poque j'ai essay\u00e9 d'identifier cette d\u00e9formation des fesses que les femmes ont pour accumuler de l'eau et de la graisse. Il est \u00e9galement dit que les Bushmen ont une danse pour chaque acte, qu'ils adorent danser et qu'ils ont un \u00e9tat de semi-\u00e9rection permanent tout au long de leur vie. J'ai un ami \u00e0 Madrid qui ne sait pas cela, mais il doit \u00eatre bushman...<\/p>\n

\"\"Nous commen\u00e7ons notre voyage \u00e0 Maun, avec quelques jours de d\u00e9tente, en parcourant le labyrinthe des voies navigables de l'Okavango, en profitant de rencontres fortuites avec des \u00e9l\u00e9phants, en sirotant des gin-tonics au coucher du soleil sur la rivi\u00e8re Boteti, et en organisant des discussions divertissantes apr\u00e8s la tomb\u00e9e de la nuit.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-atardecer-Chobe\"<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-atardecer-Chobe\"Apr\u00e8s Maun, l'aventure, et la joie de la commencer en quittant la route et en suivant les traces d'une faible piste qui nous a conduits dans la nature sauvage, dans une r\u00e9gion o\u00f9 jusqu'\u00e0 r\u00e9cemment personne n'avait os\u00e9 s'aventurer. Les premiers furent Livingstone et Oswell, puis Baines, Chapman, les fr\u00e8res Green et tant d'autres... M\u00eame un funambule, le Grand Farini, a os\u00e9 braver le grand d\u00e9sert et le traverser \u00e0 pied avec seulement un revolver, un appareil photo et un carnet de notes. Je les ai lues et j'ai \u00e9t\u00e9 happ\u00e9 par son histoire, c'est pourquoi je suis pr\u00eat \u00e0 la surmonter en allant dans le d\u00e9sert accompagn\u00e9 seulement de quatre amis, c'est-\u00e0-dire moi, totalement inconscient.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-atardecer-Kubu\"Ensemble, nous avons travers\u00e9 Makgadigadi et les terres de Nxai Pans, transform\u00e9es en vasi\u00e8re, un lieu solitaire parfois visit\u00e9 par des milliers de z\u00e8bres et de girafes, parfois par personne. Nous y avons accompagn\u00e9 le galop d'un groupe d'oryx sur l'immense saline, vu l'\u00e9l\u00e9phant se baigner et d\u00e9jeun\u00e9 \u00e0 l'ombre d'un de ces baobabs endormis immortalis\u00e9s par Baines.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1fricaApr\u00e8s l'aventure, le calme, en profitant d'un incroyable coucher de soleil parmi les baobabs de Kubu, l'\u00eele sacr\u00e9e des Bushmen, l'un des endroits les plus solitaires et mystiques que je connaisse. Rien de plus facile qu'\u00e0 la tomb\u00e9e de la nuit, sous une lune \u00e9norme, de se laisser surprendre par l'ar\u00f4me du vin sud-africain m\u00eal\u00e9 \u00e0 celui du feu de bois d'acacia et \u00e0 l'odeur de la promesse de pluie. Les rires initiaux se sont transform\u00e9s en conversations \u00e9touff\u00e9es et finalement en ronflements... Une excellente nuit.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-nxai-pan\"<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-kubu\"Et apr\u00e8s le calme, l'extase finale, en traversant le parc national de la rivi\u00e8re Chobe, l'endroit le plus peupl\u00e9 d'\u00e9l\u00e9phants au monde, et en traversant la Zambie et le Zimbabwe pour atteindre les chutes Victoria, la septi\u00e8me merveille de la nature.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1fricaEn chemin et en souvenir, ces safaris en bateau sur le Chobe, le d\u00eener \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres d'un point d'eau avec des \u00e9l\u00e9phants, un coucher de soleil dans la r\u00e9serve des Elephant Sands, un petit paradis \u00e0 Pandamatenga... et surtout la vue depuis le Zimbabwe sur les chutes Victoria.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1fricaCette nuit-l\u00e0, sur les rives du Zamb\u00e8ze, en d\u00eenant parmi les impalas et les z\u00e8bres, nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de la destination de notre prochaine aventure, les Montagnes de la Lune...<\/p>\n

\"\"J'ai h\u00e2te de repartir \u00e0 l'aventure, avec le soleil sur la t\u00eate, le vent dans le visage et la route \u00e0 mes pieds...<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica-boteti\"\"\u00c1frica-elefantes-botswana\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nous avons des amis qui demandent toujours la guerre. Ils ont crois\u00e9 avec nous les...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3664,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nEn tierra de elefantes - Desertando<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/en-tierra-de-elefantes\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"En tierra de elefantes - Desertando\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Tenemos unas amigas que siempre piden guerra. 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