{"id":3741,"date":"2019-10-06T18:30:07","date_gmt":"2019-10-06T16:30:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/elcuchara.es\/?p=3741"},"modified":"2020-02-21T08:33:20","modified_gmt":"2020-02-21T07:33:20","slug":"una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/","title":{"rendered":"Une route infinie et sauvage"},"content":{"rendered":"

L'exploratrice Isabela Bird disait que les voyages donnaient le privil\u00e8ge de faire les choses les plus inconvenantes en toute impunit\u00e9 et moi, qui ne les ai jamais faites et ne les referai jamais, je me retrouve, \u00e0 la suite de l'une d'entre elles, clou\u00e9 au lit avec un pied cass\u00e9, en train de purger mes tr\u00e8s nombreux p\u00e9ch\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica\"<\/p>\n

Quelques jours avant mon accident, j'avais travers\u00e9 le Botswana en passant par les hauts plateaux du Kalahari, la savane du Zimbabwe, le d\u00e9sert du Namib, le Kaokoland, la Skeleton Coast, navigu\u00e9 sur le Zamb\u00e8ze et le Chobe, etc. Pr\u00e8s de 6000 kilom\u00e8tres de grands espaces, de salines, de d\u00e9serts et de montagnes, chaque seconde de paysage et d'aventure sur une piste infinie et sauvage... Alors maintenant, alors que je reste enferm\u00e9 contre toute volont\u00e9 dans ma cage dor\u00e9e, je regarde les 17 agrafes qui ferment ma plaie et j'ai mal... mais pas tant que \u00e7a.<\/p>\n

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Il y a quelque chose dans ces pistes sans fin qui m'attire irr\u00e9sistiblement et j'ai besoin de m'y perdre. Et ce n'est pas parce que je fuis la justice ou une ex-petite amie d\u00e9laiss\u00e9e, ou que je suis devenu v\u00e9g\u00e9talien et que je cherche \u00e0 me retrouver, c'est simplement le plaisir de monter sur la piste et d'acc\u00e9l\u00e9rer, d'acc\u00e9l\u00e9rer jusqu'\u00e0 ce que je disparaisse dans le nuage de poussi\u00e8re que nous soulevons, sans autre carte que nos \u00e9motions et sans autre t\u00e9moin du voyage qu'un groupe d'oryx ou de girafes solitaires.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

En chemin, je m'impr\u00e8gne des lieux incroyables que la route nous d\u00e9voile, la route difficile plus au sud du Solitaire, le silence de la vall\u00e9e des acacias morts de Deadvlei ou cette ancienne mine de diamants habit\u00e9e seulement par un groupe d'otaries.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Je me souviendrai toujours du froid de l'aube dans les dunes blanches de la Skeleton Coast ou des douces nuances du cr\u00e9puscule sur cette piste perdue du Damaraland, alors que nous cherchions un endroit o\u00f9 camper avant que le jour ne s'\u00e9teigne. Je n'oublierai pas non plus les nuits sur les terres sacr\u00e9es de Spitzkoppe et de Kubu, lorsque la chaleur du feu, le vin et les bons amis nous emmenaient par la main dans cet autre monde de vieilles l\u00e9gendes qui agitent la tente, attir\u00e9s par les soupirs du vent et les hurlements lointains de la nuit.<\/p>\n

\"\u00c1frica<\/p>\n

L'ennui, un film triste et le m\u00e9lange de nolotil avec du vin me ram\u00e8nent ces souvenirs sur mon canap\u00e9 d'une mani\u00e8re po\u00e9tique et d\u00e9rangeante qui affecte mon statut d'homme de Cro-Magnon, mais tant que cela durera, je continuerai \u00e0 penser \u00e0 ces pistes sans fin. Sur ces pistes, nous avons vu le chacal r\u00f4der, le gu\u00e9pard manger et le lion se battre, nous avons partag\u00e9 un repas avec les herero dans des bars crasseux du Kaokoland et nous avons d\u00een\u00e9 au Botswana en compagnie de centaines d'\u00e9l\u00e9phants (en tirant mmmm de tr\u00e8s haut).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nous avons altern\u00e9 le luxe des meilleurs lodges d'Afrique australe et la perversit\u00e9 de quelques bars miteux aux toilettes inexcusables... Nous avons appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 la solitude des dunes de Torra Bay autant que la compagnie des Himba dans un village recul\u00e9 ou l'agitation d'un march\u00e9 de forgerons. Ce furent des journ\u00e9es d'une grande intensit\u00e9 que nous terminions toujours \u00e9puis\u00e9s, r\u00eavant d'une bonne douche chaude, d'un bon repas et d'un meilleur vin, qui n'ont jamais manqu\u00e9...<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Maintenant que je suis debout, la jambe lev\u00e9e, je me souviens de l'envie irr\u00e9sistible de remonter la c\u00f4te squelettique plus au nord, jusqu'\u00e0 Torra Bay, \u00e0 la recherche des lions du d\u00e9sert et des \u00e9l\u00e9phants, ou de continuer au sud, jusqu'\u00e0 Sandwich Harbour, o\u00f9 les dunes s'accrochent \u00e0 la mer. Mais cela devra attendre et faire partie des r\u00eaves qui, comme les b\u00e9quilles, continueront \u00e0 me hanter pendant un certain temps. Car si tous les r\u00eaves devenaient r\u00e9alit\u00e9, comment distinguer le r\u00eave de la r\u00e9alit\u00e9 ?<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

L'exploratrice Isabela Bird avait coutume de dire que les voyages donnaient...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3751,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nUna ruta infinita y salvaje - Desertando<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Una ruta infinita y salvaje - Desertando\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dec\u00eda la exploradora Isabela Bird que los viajes le daban a uno...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Desertando\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-10-06T16:30:07+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2020-02-21T07:33:20+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/DESERTANDO-SPITSKOPPE.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"El Cuchara\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"El Cuchara\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"El Cuchara\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/#\/schema\/person\/14d1bbc5a344cd8de0d8446735cfc6a1\"},\"headline\":\"Una ruta infinita y salvaje\",\"datePublished\":\"2019-10-06T16:30:07+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2020-02-21T07:33:20+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/\"},\"wordCount\":653,\"commentCount\":10,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/DESERTANDO-SPITSKOPPE.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Sin categor\u00eda\"],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/una-ruta-infinita-y-salvaje\/\",\"name\":\"Una ruta infinita y salvaje - 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