{"id":3761,"date":"2012-01-08T18:23:41","date_gmt":"2012-01-08T18:23:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/undiaenlavidadecuchara.wordpress.com\/?p=426"},"modified":"2020-02-18T18:17:42","modified_gmt":"2020-02-18T17:17:42","slug":"senegal-dakar-la-puerta-de-africa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/senegal-dakar-la-puerta-de-africa\/","title":{"rendered":"S\u00e9n\u00e9gal : Dakar, la porte de l'Afrique"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Aujourd'hui je vais faire un tour dans certaines r\u00e9gions du S\u00e9n\u00e9gal, en commen\u00e7ant par Dakar et ses environs, donc avec la permission (et sans elle) des rebelles du MFDC, je vais laisser ce que j'aime le plus au S\u00e9n\u00e9gal, la Casamance, pour la prochaine fois.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4022 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-sine-saloum.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"265\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-sine-saloum.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-sine-saloum-300x124.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>La v\u00e9rit\u00e9, c'est que cela fait presque un an que je n'y suis pas all\u00e9, mais Dakar... c'est quelque chose.<\/p>\n<p>En ville, on peut faire mille choses, aller d\u00eener Chez Katia, prendre de l'essence \u00e0 Ozio, faire danser le mbalax au Patio, perdre la t\u00eate au Texas, la retrouver \u00e0 la Scala (enfin, non, ici, on la perdra \u00e0 nouveau, c'est s\u00fbr).........,<\/p>\n<p>Et le matin, si vous n'avez pas trop bu de drapeaux (bi\u00e8re locale) la veille, vous pourrez m\u00eame visiter l'\u00eele de Gor\u00e9, class\u00e9e au patrimoine mondial de l'humanit\u00e9, o\u00f9 les esclaves sont partis pour l'Am\u00e9rique,<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4016 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-isla-de-gore3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-isla-de-gore3.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-isla-de-gore3-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Assistez \u00e0 un match de lutte s\u00e9n\u00e9galaise, faites vos emplettes au march\u00e9 de Kermel ou, tout simplement, au coucher du soleil, rendez-vous sur la corniche pour assister au retour des p\u00eacheurs dans leurs pirogues.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4020 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayucos2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayucos2.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayucos2-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Pour quitter Dakar, situ\u00e9 \u00e0 la pointe de la p\u00e9ninsule du Cap-Vert, deux options s'offrent \u00e0 vous : La premi\u00e8re consiste \u00e0 \u00e9tudier les mar\u00e9es (attention, vous risquez de rester bloqu\u00e9) et \u00e0 partir par la plage de Yoff. Il faut se lever t\u00f4t, mais le jeu en vaut la chandelle.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4021 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-playa-de-yoff.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-playa-de-yoff.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-playa-de-yoff-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Par la plage, si vous avez fait l'\u00e9tude (je r\u00e9p\u00e8te, l'\u0153il ....), vous atteindrez bient\u00f4t le Lac Rose. C'est dans ce lac sal\u00e9 qu'arrivaient les coureurs du Paris-Dakar et qu'arrivent encore les vieux rockers de l'Africa Race. On peut s'y baigner \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re de la Mer Morte ou du Lac Assal.<\/p>\n<p>Plus au nord, vous traversez des villages de p\u00eacheurs, comme celui-ci \u00e0 Kayar,<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4017 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4018 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-2.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-2-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4019 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"339\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-3.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-kayar-3-300x159.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>et les mini-dunes de Lompoul, o\u00f9 vous pouvez passer la nuit \u00e0 la belle \u00e9toile, ou continuer le long de la Langue de Barbarie jusqu'\u00e0 Saint Louis. L'autre option est de prendre la route \u00e0 travers le goulot d'\u00e9tranglement de Rufisque, \"l'enfer\", croyez-moi, vous n'avez jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 dans un embouteillage comme celui-l\u00e0..... Apr\u00e8s quelques heures, vous atteignez Thi\u00e8s et de l\u00e0 les routes vers le reste du pays.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4023 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-thies.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-thies.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-thies-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Il y a une troisi\u00e8me option, si vous avez un ami pilote, (avec un avion l\u00e9ger, bien s\u00fbr), alors vous d\u00e9collez de l'a\u00e9roport de Dakar et vous \u00eates allong\u00e9 sur la plage de la Petite C\u00f4te en une demi-heure, apr\u00e8s un vol \u00e0 couper le souffle au-dessus de la r\u00e9serve nationale de Bandia et au-dessus des for\u00eats de baobabs (ah, c'est bon d'\u00eatre Rey....).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4014 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-2.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-2-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>En parlant de Baobabs, je vous ai dit que c'est l'un de mes arbres pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9s..... La l\u00e9gende dit que c'\u00e9tait un arbre tr\u00e8s vaniteux et que c'est pour cela que Dieu l'a puni en le plantant \u00e0 l'envers. C'est s\u00fbrement vrai, car ses branches ressemblent \u00e0 des racines. Au S\u00e9n\u00e9gal, c'est un symbole, il y en a des milliers.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4015 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-baobab1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-baobab1.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal-baobab1-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>On dit que le S\u00e9n\u00e9gal poss\u00e8de le baobab le plus large du monde. Moi, je dis que c'est celui-ci<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4025 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_baobab.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_baobab.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_baobab-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>De son fruit, le pain de singe (semblable \u00e0 un melon), ils tirent une boisson, le Bui, qui est non seulement tr\u00e8s bonne, mais qui contient aussi beaucoup de vitamine C et dont on dit qu'elle est un rem\u00e8de contre la diarrh\u00e9e et la malaria (mais allez, mieux vaut prendre la pilule contre la malaria). Une fois que nous avons atteint Thi\u00e8s, j'adore la route vers Kayes, \u00e0 la fronti\u00e8re avec le Mali. J'ai pris ces photos dans l'un des villages le long de la route, o\u00f9 nous travaillions.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4013 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal1.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando-senegal1-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4024 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_2.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_2-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4009 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-4.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-4-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Par contre, si vous allez vers le sud, vous passez la zone touristique des plages du Saly, que je n'aime pas du tout, et en quelques heures vous trouverez le parc national du delta du Saloum, que vous allez adorer et que je vous recommande pour une escapade en amoureux. Moi, comme j'y suis all\u00e9e avec Justi, ce n'\u00e9tait pas pareil, je ne suis pas encore pr\u00eate \u00e0 faire ce grand pas....<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4006 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_sine-saloum.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_sine-saloum.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_sine-saloum-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Voici l'un des plus beaux cimeti\u00e8res que j'aie jamais vus. J'aimerais avoir quelque chose comme \u00e7a pour moi quand je mourrai, bien que je ne sois pas press\u00e9 que ce moment arrive.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4011 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-cementerio-saloum.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-cementerio-saloum.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-cementerio-saloum-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Pour se d\u00e9placer dans le Delta, il faut prendre le bateau. Avant d'embarquer, il y a un endroit incroyable (pour peu d'argent, vous pourriez y faire de la publicit\u00e9 pour votre restaurant) pour prendre un drapeau froid et essayer la Thieboudienne, le plat s\u00e9n\u00e9galais typique \u00e0 base de riz, de tomates et de poisson. Bien que le meilleur que j'aie mang\u00e9 soit celui de Jandri... et il ne figure pas dans les guides.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4012 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-sine-saloum-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"250\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-sine-saloum-3.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-sine-saloum-3-300x117.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\u00c0 l'int\u00e9rieur des terres, au sud-est, se trouve le parc national du Niokolo Koba, le pays des Bassari, qui est \u00e9galement tr\u00e8s beau, mais il n'y a pas beaucoup d'animaux, je pense que j'ai vu plus d'animaux dans certains lieux nocturnes de Madrid.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4007 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_sine-saloum-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_sine-saloum-2.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_sine-saloum-2-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>C'est impressionnant de voir \u00e0 quel point cette photo me transmet du stress.<\/p>\n<p>Une fois le delta pass\u00e9, le long de la c\u00f4te, vous trouverez la Gambie et, plus bas, le S\u00e9n\u00e9gal et la Casamance, qui est en proie \u00e0 des troubles depuis quelques ann\u00e9es en raison d'un mouvement rebelle, de sorte qu'il ne sera pas difficile de trouver des postes de contr\u00f4le militaires.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4010 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-5.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal-5-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>En Casamance, nous quittons la zone wolof pour entrer en territoire mandingue, les grands sorciers et sorci\u00e8res du S\u00e9n\u00e9gal. J'aime bien ces gens qui sont encore regroup\u00e9s en soci\u00e9t\u00e9s secr\u00e8tes. Ici, je suis trait\u00e9 comme un cousin \u00e9loign\u00e9, car curieusement, mon nom de famille, Comte, est tout \u00e0 fait mandingue et tr\u00e8s r\u00e9pandu dans cette r\u00e9gion, et plus encore en Guin\u00e9e (Conakry). Malheureusement, je ne leur ressemble que par mon patronyme et la largeur de mon nez.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4008 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_thies.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"418\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_thies.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_thies-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_thies-400x260.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Pour que vous puissiez voir la grande ressemblance que nous avons, j'ai mis ici la photo de quelques-uns de mes cousins \u00e9loign\u00e9s...<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-4005 size-full\" title=\"\u00a9DESERTANDO\" src=\"http:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_baobab1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_baobab1.jpg 640w, https:\/\/desertando.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/desertando_senegal_baobab1-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Et c'est l\u00e0 que je vous laisse, au milieu de la route. Je finirai de vous raconter, ou si vous pr\u00e9f\u00e9rez, je vous invite \u00e0 m'accompagner pour d\u00e9couvrir cette partie du monde et la voir de vos propres yeux. Je vous souhaite une bonne ann\u00e9e. La mienne, si Dieu le veut, sera une ann\u00e9e sans beaucoup d'argent mais pleine de voyages en Afrique. Nous verrons bien, si Dieu le veut, Insha'Allah.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Aujourd'hui, je vais visiter quelques r\u00e9gions du S\u00e9n\u00e9gal, en commen\u00e7ant par...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4023,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[50,75,79,86,95],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v23.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Senegal: Dakar, la puerta de Africa - Desertando<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/desertando.com\/fr\/senegal-dakar-la-puerta-de-africa\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Senegal: Dakar, la puerta de Africa - 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